The Inambari Dam Project: Nature vs. Power

By Chris Kirkby –  Principal Investigator, Fauna Forever

International media is once again turning its attention to the Amazon rainforests of south-eastern Peru, a spectacular wilderness area and biodiversity hotspot dominated by world famous national parks such as Manu and Bahuaja-Sonene where jaguars and giant otters still roam free and unaffected. What is drawing their interest? Yet another large-scale development project. First was the paving of the Interoceanica Highway, a westerly extension of the Trans Amazon Highway that crosses Brazil and which will facilitate cross-border trade. Now the Peruvian government plans to bring in a Brazilian consortium of companies (Ebasur) to build at a cost of US$4 Billion a 2,200-megawatt dam on the Inambari River, drowning 378 km2of life-rich tropical pre-montane forest located a stone’s throw from the Bahuaja-Sonene National Park (see map below). The benefits and impacts of this reservoir project are still being calculated, but most people in Peru already hold a strong opinion about it, one way or the other.

With regards to the benefits of the dam, the economic value is pretty easy to tot up as it would be dominated by the electricity produced, 80% of which would be exported to Brazil during the first decade to feed the growing industries in states such as Acre, Rondonia and Mato Grosso with the rest flowing into the Peruvian national grid to power the south of the country (details will be hammered out between the countries soon apparently). There are still no good published estimates of this benefit, at least not that we’ve been able to find, but it’s certain that someone will release it soon. There are also some additional benefits in terms of the tourism and recreational potential that a large reservoir would create, a reservoir that would be within 4-5 hours of Cusco (the tourist capital of Peru), within sight and easy access of snowcapped mountains (i.e. the Ausangate range) lined with azure-blue lakes and hotsprings at every turn, and one or two Cock-of-the-Rock (Rupicola peruviana) leks to boot. The building of dams also generates jobs of course, at least for the relatively short period it takes to build them, although in truth the value that one should consider is the premium in wages that workers would perceive above and beyond what they would normally be paid if they stayed in their existing jobs.

It is quite another matter putting monetary figures on the impacts, general upheaval and cost of headache pills that the building, flooding and subsequent operations will generate. And figures are what are needed as soon as possible, because local people, politicians and Peruvian society as a whole need to start taking decisions as money/value issues underpin strong arguments in this part of the world. Due to poor methodology in the past (or a simple lack of any method at all) the negative economic impacts of such mega-projects have largely been undervalued. Happily, some eager beavers have been developing tools to help calculate the costs of dams around the world (e.g. http://conservation-strategy.org/en/news/csf-launches-hydrocalculatortool).

Some of the more notable impacts include the forced movement of local people to higher ground and induced changes on farming practices. Ebasur and local district mayors estimate the number of people that will be directly and indirectly affected will be between 3,000-15,000. Some of these people welcome the prospect of being moved, others are not so inclined (and have already begun to protest in the streets), even though there is already talk about compensation, new schools and other government services. Not trivial are also the potential carbon dioxide (CO2) and methane (CH4) emissions that the reservoir could generate over time from the decomposition of soil, sunken trees and other vegetation, each molecule of which would add to the climate change problem (particularly the methane) and so carries local, national and international costs (i.e. the dam may affect you too!). New or additional deforestation in areas near the reservoir, as a consequence of moving people to higher ground and as people from other areas migrate into the area to squat and clear land, will exacerbate this emissions impact. The water, sediment deposition, and flood regimes downstream of the dam (i.e. in Madre de Dios, Peru; Pando, Bolivia) will be severely affected, especially during the process of dam filling, which may take 2-3 years, not to mention the physical barrier to migrating fish that a 220m high wall of reinforced concrete will mean. Fish, fishermen, floodplain farmers (who rely on new, fertile sediment deposits on their lands each year, delivered to them by the annual floods during the rainy season) and other waterway users will all be affected in one way or another. Ethically controversial but significant none-the-less is that the restriction of sediment-flow will also leave thousands of miners downriver with a considerable deficit of gold to extract from riverbeds.

We hear a cost-benefit analysis, with values for all the above (and more hopefully) is still in the making, but will be published soon. As and when we get our hands on it, we will surely share some of its content here on the FFT blog.
So, Chris, which side of the fence do you stand at present? Good question Sir, where do I stand? Well, (i) if local people in the affected area can be moved to new housing in an orderly and planned fashion and sufficiently recompensed financially (for the headaches caused by moving house) and with good quality, organised housing and improved health and educational services; (ii) if sufficient research is undertaken well in advance to survey and translocate threatened wildlife species, and to estimate what the minimum discharges down-stream should be, during reservoir filling, in order to reduce impacts on say migratory fish and other aquatic animals in the Inambari river in Madre de Dios ; (iii) if the timber on hillsides and valleys that will lie below the future waterline can be extracted in as environmentally friendly a manner as possible (to reduce future CO2 and CH4 emissions from decomposition); (iv) if the Ministry of the Environment (that means you Antonio B.) can negotiate with (or force) both the companies that build the dam and those that will eventually operate it to regularly pay into an Inambari Forest Conservation and Development Fund (just made that name up on the spot) and simultaneously establish both the Ausangate-Inambari National Park and the Inambari Communal Reserve Network (just made those names up as well) to be situated upriver of the dam (which would together act to conserve the water quality and species rich parts of the catchment, would form a protected forest corridor between the Bahuaja Sonene National Park and the Amarakaeri Comunal Reserve [and hence to the Manu National Park], and would allow managed access by local people to certain natural resources); (v) if gold mining and coca growing activities further upriver on the Inambari River can be thoroughly regulated and brought under control (to reduce and one day eliminate the water pollution and deforestation that these activities generate); (vi) if a network of well manned park guard stations can be built on potential access routes leading from the roads, dam, rivers to the border of the Bahuaja Sonene National Park and the new protected areas to be established (to reduce illegal incursions into these areas); (vii) if only native species of fish are eventually allowed to be introduced into the resulting reservoir for fish farming or sport fishing (i.e. a BIG no-no to tilapia and carp); (viii) and if only quiet sailing boats (no speedboats and jet skis please) with yellow, green, or pink sails is the only type of pleasure craft allowed on the reservoir (maybe the colour code would be asking too much?); then I might at least toss a coin with a 50% chance of saying yes.

Puerto Maldonado

The heat and humidity is pretty stifling getting off the plane but it feels right. How it should be. It’s the bloody jungle after all.

The beginnings of the bridge that will span the river

Bags collected, I pressed through the gang of touting mototaxistas (motor taxi drivers: three or two wheeled) and the waiting tour guides holding up the signs for their lodges. After a minute I grabbed a tuk tuk and headed off into town. Puerto Maldonado (PEM) is a jungle frontier town at the confluence of the Tambopata and the Madre de Dios rivers. It is going through big changes as a result of the Inter Oceanica Highway that is being built here. A massive carretera that stretches from the coast of Brazil to (so far) PEM. The only thing stopping it ploughing through the town is the Madre de Dios river. However, a bridge is under construction and as soon as that is completed this huge highway will tear though the town, changing it forever. It will eventually reach the coast. When it is paved the road will enable the export of Brazilian products to the Asian market, through the Peruvian ports of the Pacific. Without question, once opened, the highway will accelerate deforestation of the Amazon. You only have to look at a satellite photograph of the area to see that is it already happing. With roads come people, settlements, deforestation and hunting. Already Puerto Maldonado registers the biggest rate of annual population growth in Peru at 3.5% (Maria Emilia Coelho: FROM MUD TO ASPHALT. FROM ASPHALT TO QUAGMIRE). Hundreds of people arrive every day in Madre de Dios in search of work. Illegal gold prospecting is openly carried out in the rivers leading to potentially catastrophic poisoning of the waters as the prospectors pour in mercury to extract the gold. Illegal logging is also rife. All of these practices inevitably puts the survival of indigenous peoples at even more of a risk than it is already.

One of Fauna Forever’s flagship initiatives is Forest Corridors Forever (FCF) which is working closely with local families, communities, government and not-for-profit organisations to develop a network of forest corridors that will cross the Inter Oceanica Highway. This will link the Tambopata National Reserve to intact forested areas to the north of the highway, and thus maintain the ecological integrity of the Reserve, its wildlife and rich biodiversity. Funding for the development of these corridors and incentives for locals to protect and replant their forests will come from the promotion and sale of environmental services such as carbon, biodiversity, and water credits.

Looking up at the obelisk

Rattling up to FFT HQ I was met by Chris Kirkby (FFT Director and Principal Investigator), Dave Johnstone (Marketing Manager) and Brian Crnobrna (Herpetology Coordinator). Later arrived Rachel Handley de Amable (Project Manager) and Naun Amable Silva (Bird Coordinator).  After quick introductions we all went out for lunch at a place on the Plaza de Armas (the main square. Every Peruvian town has one) to discuss strategy.  Two more days of meetings with various organisations including the Baltimore Community’s representative, Victor. FFT are in discussions with them about bringing volunteers to their community on the Rio Tambopata. We will pay them a visit soon to see the place with our own eyes and check out what could be done there. The office is very close to el obelisco (the obelisk). A concrete tower built on a roundabout that serves as a mirador or viewpoint over the town and the rivers and forest beyond. Around the base of the tower are tableaux and statues of various activities depicting various industries of the area.

View from the top of the obelisk

Mototaxistas going around the obelisk

FFT’s latest recruit, George Bareham arrives in Peru

The plane landed with a jolt at 21.06, 29^th April, Jorge Chavez airport, Lima. It had been an uneventful journey from London apart from the routine interrogation at immigrations in Miami where I had transited through. A couple of films, two or three not very funny sitcoms, surfing the radio, OK food, periodic strolls up and down the aisle. And so it went. After immigrations and security and through the final door in Lima I was greeted by hysterical screams from a hoard of teenage girls. My tiredness lifted suddenly until I realised that I was exiting with some Peruvian pop band which I had momentarily joined. We immediately parted (creative differences); the band into their limo and me into my cab headed for Miraflores, the posh, touristy bit of Lima by the sea.

I hadn’t made a reservation and the place I had in mind was full which surprised me as last time I had stayed there it had been deserted. Anyway, I then tried next door at Flying Dog’s but that was also full. Now very tired, we then drove to a place in Surquillo that the cab driver had suggested. It wasn’t far so what the hell. They had a room. Basic but OK. I wasn’t in a fussy mood. After paying and thanking my driver (and paying for the room), being handed the standard issue toilet roll, soap and towel, I chucked my bags on the bed and jumped in the shower. Bloody hell I was starving I suddenly realised. The shower had revived me a bit so I was out into the night hunting for anticuchos which I had a craving for. Anticuchos are slices of beef heart on skewers and barbecued. Often found on street corners all over the country and usually delicious. They also only come out at night. A bit like vampires.  Unfortunately, my luck was out that night as I couldn’t find any anywhere and I wasn’t going to walk far so I settled for some chaufa, AKA Chinese food, another Peruvian favourite. I bought a couple of beers (Cusqueñas) went back to my room and watched a bit of TV.

As those who are familiar with such budget hotels will know, the tiny TV is often placed in a cage high up at ceiling level, so even lying on the bed you have to crane your neck to watch it properly. It didn’t really matter as I quickly fell asleep, planning tomorrow.

Next morning, after being woken up by the traffic, I was out into the day. The weather never seems to change in Lima. It is perpetually grey. Everything, or so it seems. Well, it occasionally drizzles. I’d decided to stay at my hotel for one more night as I didn’t have the energy to haul all my stuff to somewhere else and check out time was imminent. I spent most of the day slowly reacquainting myself with the capital, writing emails, changing money. You can change money in Miraflores safely with the official street changers unlike in others countries where you are likely to get ripped off.

After one more night at my lovely hotel and at last finding anticuchos (aha)!! I upped-sticks and moved to Miraflores proper after being kindly offered a spare bed by my good friends, Jan and Margot. Jan works for Peruvian Safaris and is a former manager of Explorer’s Inn. I called Chris Kirkby, now my boss as I am working for www.faunaforever.org/fft and www.fotoforever.org (as photographic workshop leader) and we all met at the Peruvian Safaris office where Max Gunther, the founder and owner of Explorer’s Inn rainforest lodge and research centre presides.

The following few days were spent in meetings with various people representing organisations who Fauna Forever could eventually work with. All interesting stuff.

Chris then had to go to Cusco so Jan had the idea of going up to stay at his friend’s finca (farm). We drove north out of Lima, following the Pan American Highway through the cool, misty desert, passing the occasional shanty towns and battery chicken barns. The finca was a friendly place. Chickens, maize, cows. A smoky kitchen at the back where people were busy preparing food over an open fire.  We all sat and had a drink of the local firewater while Jan caught up with his friend. The farm was to play host to a group of about 25 Dutch students who were coming to the end of their Grand Tour of Peru. They arrived in their bus not long after us and they set up camp on the bare ground in front of the main building. Someone dug a big hole in the ground where the food was to be cooked. After digging, large stones are placed at the bottom of the hole. Wood is then put on top and burned. Eventually when the whole thing is red hot, chicken and sweet potato, wrapped in banana leaves are put in and the hole is filled with earth. This way of cooking is known as Pachamanca. It all slow cooks perfectly, and a few hours later we all enjoyed roast chicken and sweet potatoes al fresco. Very nice it was too.

Next day we all set off on a desert trek to a place called Medio Mundo; an archaeological site where the remains of ancient pyramids still lie. It took about four hours across this lunar landscape. Luckily the weather was nice and cool or it might have been a bit of a nightmare. It was good to stretch the legs in such an unusual environment. That night we camped again and ate well again.

So after these adventures it was at last time to complete my journey and head off to the rainforest!! Chris and the rest of the Fauna Forever team were already in Puerto Maldonado (PEM) so I was to meet them there.  I took a pre-dawn taxi to the airport – 35 soles (pay no more) and boarded the plane as the sun was coming up. All flights from Lima to Puerto Maldonado go via Cusco. You just stay on the plane. To Cusco is about an hour. I hadn’t been able to get a direct flight so I had to get out at Cusco and collect my bags ready for a three hour ‘layover’. I rechecked my bag for PEM and went out of the airport to eat some local food. 5 soles for a big plate including refresco (juice). Bargain. I then went back into the airport and used the WiFi in the VIP lounge. They said as long as I bought a coffee that would be OK. You should try it. Mind you, the coffee cost more than twice as much as the food I had just bought.

Back on the plane I was on my way again. It’s always worth getting a window seat for the journey from Lima. When I first came here 10 years ago to be a Resident Naturalist at Explorer’s Inn (EI) I was amazed at how the landscape changes below you. Rising out of the grey blanket covering Lima, hugging the coastline, the ocean glittering, heading south, the landscape soon becomes mountainous and seemingly uninhabited. You can just make out settlements in the valleys between the snowy peaks. It’s pretty spectacular and I’d never seen anything like it before. Circling Cusco (the naval of the world according to the Incas) set out in the shape of a puma, you double-back and descend quickly. Then up and away again, everything changes even more dramatically. Mountains quickly give way to lush, green rainforest, the kind I had seen countless times on nature documentaries on TV, the kind I had yearned to see for years while in England and now I was actually here! Rivers snaked and looped below me flanked by ox-bow lakes and the green seemed to stretch to the horizon. I couldn’t believe I was actually seeing it with my own eyes. “Down there be wild Indians and jaguars and anacondas, “  to misquote Peter Matthiessen’s At Play in the Fields of the Lord. That’s what my thoughts turned to though. Down there was wildness and unimaginable adventure. What was it going to be like? So excited!!!

Good morning and welcome to The Amazon

Welcome to a new platform for discussing the Amazon rainforest.  In particular, we will be talking much about the region in Peru called Tambopata. Why Tambopata? Because this is arguably the most biologically diverse area on our planet and a good example of the ‘ups and downs’ of a typical Amazon rainforest region.

We are a registered charity in Peru; a group of dedicated scientists, artists, communication specialists, anthropologists, researchers, volunteers, writers, photographers, teachers and businessmen from many different continents, working with many organisations, working with local people, with one common goal.

Together, we want to learn about this invaluable resource and pass on the information we gather to the rest of the World in a way which is easy and interesting enough to digest happily over a morning coffee. The more minds we can put together on this platform, the more chance we will have to bring change. Together, let’s discover new ways of protecting and replanting the Amazon.

We believe that if you are reading this you will likely know the importance of the rainforest. But perhaps, you won’t feel the importance until it’s too late… or will you?

Welcome to Fauna Forever.