Week 3, by Sofia Prado (18yo volunteer from Mexico)

Everyday just gets better and better here. We came back to Puerto Maldonado today, back to civilization, back to everyone wearing clean clothes that don’t smell like wild creatures. Although it is a treat to be here I’m not so sure I like it. I already miss the jungle. Don’t get me wrong, Puerto is a great place but my heart lies in the forest. But, really I don’t care where we are, as long as it’s working with Fauna Forever. Tomorrow we return to the jungle, to a whole new lodge just waiting to be explored. I can barely wait. I have yet to grasp the idea that all of this, all these animals, places, adventures and people will soon be miles away from me while we once shared everything at FFT. One of the things I like the most about FFT is that this is not just an organization, this is a group of talented and tireless people who walk the walk 100% of the time. For example everyone here lives with only the bare minimum. Although I have been learning so much here that has been one of the most important reminders or wake up calls of my life. Men have created a world that caters to their every whim, we’ve  been so selfish, not only with the living creatures we share the planet with but among our own species. Why would you take a 20 minute shower when you can take a shorter 5 minute one? Why would you leave the lights on when you can simply switch them off? Why is it so hard for us to grasp the concept of empathy? It’s not like it hasn’t been repeated over and over again, even now, still, in 11^th grade I hear every other day. The problem is we need to be shocked into realization. Realizations we don’t know exist or choose to ignore. I mean, take me for instance. I thought I was pretty eco friendly before I came here. I recycle, I was the president of the “green club” at my school, I remind my parents not to buy those dreaded straws or anything else that seems to be a completely stupid and useless waste in the world. It is not enough. I have been living a totally new life these past weeks. I have been showering with cold water, I haven’t seen a plug in quite some time, I have been introduced to an outhouse. I realize what life can be like without all of our comforts and I find I quite like it. I would really love to live a completely eco friendly lifestyle and here it seems is the closest I’ve ever gotten. Why is man plotting against his own species, why is it always every man for himself? It is not just about buying organic cotton shirts or planting one tree. It is ALL about choices. Do you really need that overly packaged new product? Do you really want to watch that show on TV? What is the difference between needs and wants these days? To change, we need to rethink our own lifestyle and also help others with understanding the impact of theirs. If we all make small changes we can make a big difference in the world. We can conserve our resources and wild places like the Tambopata National Reserve, which if I haven’t already mentioned, is a jewel.  I can’t really put all my feelings into words because they are so vibrant and alive, its unbelievable. The only thing I can say is that my cheeks ache from smiling and laughing so much during my stay here.

Week 2, by Sofia Prado (18yo volunteer from Mexico)

Every morning I wake up at 6 am if not before then by my own tummy. My body has set time to my new environment. The Tambopata area is breathtaking. Frankly the only reason I would leave is to bring my family and pets here to settle. It is the most magical place I have ever been to and you become completely disconnected from the outside world, so much so that you might find yourself going a little insane. Insane is good here though and you need every day to get by. I actually found myself becoming a little crazier at every lodge. No phones, no computers, I can deal without that, but no lights? There are no switches anywhere but at the end of each day you get a full11 person table or more to talk in the candlelight. To exchange stories, ideas, sightings, news, languages and ways of life – it’s like Christmas where everyone sits and talks for hours. Sometimes though, here at least, you’re so hungry after the day’s work all you can hear are forks clinging on the plates. This is a place for friendships; everyone knows your secrets and sees your undies! There are things I have seen that I could only dream I would have. I’ve seen a hummingbird hovering mere inches from my face, I’ve seen caiman swimming in the most serene location I’ve ever been to, I’ve seen tamarins flinging themselves over my head and across my path. You learn about everything here; animals, culture, the forest and get hands-on training, and work to do. I helped catch and mount butterflies, wallowed in waist-deep mud to get a flag in a game, woken up at 5 am to help out with bird ringing. I’ve even learned how to use a machete! Do you realize how cool that is? Although I wasn’t very good at it, I feel like an awkward ‘Jane in the Jungle’, but the experience and story are there to tell. You take everything to the limit here, if you don’t you won’t get the full experience. I can’t say enough wonderful things about my time here and it’s only been a little over a week. There is so much more to tell, this organization is incredible, the place is amazing and the experience unforgettable. The only downfall is preparing yourself for the sudden realization that after the phase is up you will have to go home. You’re going to miss it, my heart aches every time I remember that every day spent full of wonder means quickly and surely will move onto the next. The howler monkey calls, the twinkles from the stars, the constant sweat on my brow will suddenly be no more. So experience it all and try it all. Smell the poop (when tracking animals), wade in the mud, whack the machete, catch the butterfly, connect with the others so that when you go home you can tell everyone about your adventure and you will have no regrets. You will remember the forest and the family that will stay with you forever.

FAUNA FOREVER TAMBOPATA PHASE 10.4 (George Bareham)

On Tuesday 8^th June a new group of volunteers arrived in Puerto Maldonado for FFT’s Phase 10.4. of training and research. The five arrived in the shape of Max from the States, Sofia from Mexico, Melissa from Peru and Will and Tom from England. All raring to go and eager to get to work in the rainforest! They’ll be carrying out their research at three distinct locations: The Explorer’s Inn http://www.explorersinn.com/, The Baltimore Community http://baltimoreperu.org.pe/and Sachavacayoc Centre http://www.newton.edu.pe/sachavacayoc/eng/index.htm.

Our four skilled coordinators will be leading the teams. Namely, Ashley (insects), Brian (herps), Sofia (mammals) and Naun (birds). Dave, our marketing guru will be overseeing as will Chris, boss man/Principal Investigator and Director.

After everyone had arrived and was assigned bunks at the FFT house/office we all got down to the official introductions and welcomes plus the detail of the forthcoming exciting projects. Each volunteer was given a copy of the FFT handbook which covers everything you could possibly want to know. Not just the science but tales and legends too, including the legend of Chullachaqui, the mysterious guardian and shape shifter of the Amazon rainforest! After all of that, it was time to hit the streets in search of a less mysterious entity, namely pizza.

After a long night’s sleep the bus arrived to ship us out to the Infierno community from where we would get the boat up to the lodge.

Sofia, Melissa, Tom, Max, Naun, Will, Dave, Brian and Sofia R. wait at Infierno port

The shop at Infierno

The shopkeeper

Brazil nuts (castañas) for sale

Earrings too

After loading up the boat it was time to head upriver to where the volunteers would experience their first night in the rainforest. Through the checkpoint at La Torre we were soon climbing the stairs up to Explorer’s Inn. The afternoon was spent going through the essentials of jungle health and safety (very important) and FFT objectives.

Tom looks agog

Sofia eyes the river bank

Sofia R. looks happy

Brian wishing I would put my camera down

Carlos the boat driver behind a mountain of gear

The first week is a training week for the volunteers. The FFT teams will spend this time learning the theoretical and practical background of the field methods to be used and the procedures and tricks used to identify the many species that will be sampled. A lot is learned and it’s a great opportunity for the exchange of ideas and opinions as well as for everyone to get to know each other and to explore the amazing forest around. Lots of interesting and useful stuff is covered including: ornithology: bird mist-netting and monitoring techniques, herpetology methods: science and identification, mammal monitoring: print recognition and ID, entomology: ID and butterfly mounting. As well as neotropical rainforest biodiversity and conservation, carbon and payment for ecosystem services, GPS and orienteering plus emergency scenarios! All of the classroom based theory is backed up by extensive practicals in the forest itself. Line transect surveys were carried out by the mammal team, the bird team was out ID-ing and mist-netting, the herpers went on nocturnal searches for snakes and frogs and butterflies were netted, identified and mounted.

Moments after arrival they have spotted some interesting birds

Birdringer Carlton shares his expert knowledge

A yellow-rumped cacique (Cacicus cela) that was mist-netted

Brian talks about herps

A frog is bagged and identified

False fer-de lance (Xenodon spp)

Ashley enjoying herself

Brian et al bagging frogs

As we had just taken delivery of some remote camera traps, we decided to position one overnight right outside the bungalows we were staying in. I had just built a bird table with Jason, one of the lodge’s Resident Naturalists; not only with the idea of attracting birds but also perhaps a tayra which is regularly seen raiding the banana trees nearby.  So we thought that the next morning when we checked the camera, that’s what we would have a picture of. Well, what we actually did see on the camera’s memory card surprised and excited us all! We had a clear photograph of a big, male ocelot that had walked right by our bungalows as we slept!

Caught on camera

It is incredible to imagine what creatures walk through the grounds of the lodge while we are blissfully unaware. Did this ocelot walk past us every night? Was it on its routine nightly patrol through its territory? What else was out there? Room for much further camera trapping I think!

On the following Sunday came some real fun. Albeit a great learning exercise too! It was the day of the great GPS orienteering competition. The idea was this. Mark out seven or eight scattered points in the forest at specific GPS coordinates.  At each point, there was a clue as to the direction of the next point with a compass/GPS bearing written on a red ribbon. They had to find each successive point which led them to the end and victory! The volunteers were split into two teams with their coordinators. First to the end got the prize. Simple! The pace was hectic.

In the morning light before the GPS race

Chris instructs in the ways of the GPS

Ashley helps with the first clue

Resident Naturalist Jason, being the tallest, helps get a GPS signal

They started in the lodge’s grounds around the football field before they plunged into the forest, racing down the trails, looking for the next clue. Quick thinking, not to mention, running was the only way either team was going to win.

Checking GPS coordinates

At the dock, looking for the next clue

The clue's on the boat

Now where?

Determination

Faster!!

Back up the steps!

Down the river bank

The teams eventually found themselves by the La Torre River for the penultimate clue. Dave was waiting there to tell them that the good news that the next clue was actually in the river, tied to an old tree. Two of the girls bravely leaped in to retrieve the ribbon!

Dave, you can't be serious!

Dave was serious

Sofia and Melissa don't think twice

RUN!!

Back up the bank!

arshory ( newly arrived beetle expert) wonders what she has got herself into

As does brand new RN, Kevin

The clue led both teams breathlessly to the end of the chase at Sunset Point where Chris was waiting with cold beers for everyone! It was a great end to the day as we finished our sundowners, watching the sun sink over the Tambopata River and the sky streaked with red, orange and blue. As the light faded we took the short walk back to the lodge and to welcome shower and a hot dinner.

Sundowners at Sunset Point and the end!

(The volunteers continue on to the Baltimore Community).

Bat Netting at Explorer’s Inn June 3rd, 2010 (George Bareham)

After a week of mist netting birds and ringing them with the Birdringingforever crew, one of the ringers, François Villeneuve (M. Sc) decided we should try for some bats. François is a scientist and lecturer in Quebec so he knows his stuff. Most of the detail in this blog post is based on information provided by François so Fauna Forever sends its appreciation!

Artibeus jamaicensis (George Bareham)

He set up two mist nets (3 X 6 m) a few hundred metres down Sunset Point Trail, close to the lodge and opened them at 17h45. After only twenty minutes, eight bats were already caught. After carefully extracting them from the nets with gloves (look at the teeth), it turned out that they were all of the same species: The Jamaican Fruit-eating bat (Artibeus jamaicensis).

Interestingly, seven of them were lactating females which was easily seen because of the enlarged nipples and hair loss around them.  The only male was an adult.

It was amazing to see these creatures at such close quarters. These were pretty big bats as bats go. The most interesting thing for me was being able to examine their wings which felt like a cross between rubber and elastic and very, very soft. They can be handled without gloves after extraction but only with great care!

Caught in the net (George Bareham)

A. jamaicensis are common bats in the tropics. They are considered large fruit-eating bats (50-60 g). They fly low in the understory, use human made trails and are commonly caught in mist nets. They occur from Mexico to Central and South America in the Amazonian Brazil, Peru to northwestern Argentina mainly in humid tropical habitats but can be found in mature and secondary rainforest, deciduous forest, gardens and plantations.

They use caves, hollow trees, dense foliage, buildings and leaf tents as roost sites. They are fruit generalists but will eat figs if present in their habitat. The male will defend a harem of 4 to 14 females in their roost. Each female has two oestrus annually and produces a single young, rarely twins, each time.

Known predators are Barn Owl (Tyto alba), Spectacled Owl (Pulsatrix perspicillata), Mottled Owl (Ciccaba virgata), Bat Falcon (Falco rufigularis), boas and false vampire bats (Vampyrum spectrum).

Examining the wings (George Bareham)

With wings spread (George Bareham)

References:

Emmons, L. H. 1990. Neotropical rainforest mammals: a field guide. Un. Chicago Press. 281 pages.

Ortega J. and Castro-Arellano, I. 2001.  Artibeus jamaicensis. Mammalian Species, no. 662, 1–12.

Tambopata, Explorer’s Inn…………Back to Maldonado

Explorer's Inn

So, permits obtained we were then on the EI bus up the dusty road to the Infierno Community where we caught the boat up to Explorer’s Inn (EI). It’s about an hour’s trip upriver from there. I’d been here a year ago and nothing had changed apart from one of the pet macaws had been eaten by an ocelot. Big changes for the lodge are in the pipeline though. Watch this space.

Explorer’s Inn Amazon Lodge and Research Station lies in the 240, 690 hectare Tambopata National Reserve, one of the most biodiverse ecosystems in the world. It was here that world records in bird, butterfly and dragonfly diversity have been set and remains the best lodge on the river for wildlife sightings. It was the first ecotourism lodge to be built in the region and is the only one situated fully within the boundary of the reserve.

Boat on the Tambopata river

Jaguar watching the world go by...

Doing the plots!

We set to work doing some tree surveying using Gentry Plots. At regular interval down Main Trail we stretched 50 metres of rope out into the forest from each side of the trail (100m in total) to ID and measure trees and shoots. The aim of this is to eventually work out where there are the most fruiting trees thereby creating a possible link to the number of mammal species found there. This was pretty hard work as it meant physically pushing ourselves through the thick undergrowth. Throughout this process, all or some of us got scratched, spiked by spiky Walking Palms, showered in ants, chased by angry bees and generally got very hot and smelly.

Waking up in the morning at EI is always special. Deep in the forest you tend to live by the sun. So it’s early to bed soon after dinner and up with the lark. In this case it’s not a lark but a chorus of amazing and exotic birds that pull you out of dreamland. After a sultry night of frogs and cicadas it’s the Red Howler monkeys whose eerie roar booms across the forest that first rouses you. If they are close then it’s really loud! It’s a most unmonkey-like sound and most people are baffled by it at first. Perhaps joining in next is the rising and falling of the Dusky Titi monkeys call from somewhere hidden in the forest. The most distinctive bird call has to be of the Thrush-like Wrens. It’s a rat-a-tat-tat, rat-a-tat-tat, rat-a-tat-tat! In a tall, thin palm just outside the bungalows lives a colony of caciques which also join in with their rattling chorus. Also, the oropendula with a call that can only be described as the sound made by a pebble being dropped into water is like nothing you’ve ever heard from a bird. (Try googling some of these). The occasional shrill cry of a macaw flying overhead or a flock of speeding dusky-headed parakeets completes the whole picture and it’s repeated every morning. You’ll never forget it!

Red and green macaw

After several days of ‘plotting’, welcome showers, chats with tourists and the odd Pisco Sour it was time to go upriver to the Baltimore community to meet Victor again and to see if there was anything FFT could do up there. After an hour and a half we arrived at El Gato (the cat) where Victor’s chakra (farm) was. The main part of the community was on the other side of the river which we would visit later. El Gato consists of the chakra where banana, papaya and oranges grow. Several wooden building which would be used as sleeping quarters for volunteers, A communal comedor (eating area), kitchen, a river, hammocks, an extensive area of forest, a friendly cat and a pet chestnut-fronted macaw.  There is a network of trails through the forest, which lead to fishing areas and a hide where you can view a small collpa (parrot clay lick) from early in the morning.  Parrots need to eat clay as part of their diet. It’s thought that the clay helps to detoxify the accumulation of poisons in their diet of seeds.  They come down to the river bank in large numbers to hang on to the vertical surface and nibble away at the clay.

Parrots at the collpa

We spent the day in discussions with Victor, walking the trails, being fed delicious local food by his mum and swimming in the river. There was certainly plenty that volunteers could do there, from building a new bird hide to making informative signs on the trails amongst other things. At night we settled down into our beds under mosquito nets and slept to the sound of EL Gato river rushing by.

The following day before we left, we paid a visit to the main part of the community across the river. Baltimore has an unusual resident in the shape of Robin, an American who moved there when he was about sixteen. He apparently came to visit and liked it so much he decided to stay! He has his little house there and chakra and is involved in reforestation projects. Unfortunately that day he was out so we weren’t able to meet him. Instead we were guided by the town’s shaman.  (Shamans treat ailments and illness by mending the soul. They are said to enter supernatural realms or dimensions to obtain solutions to problems afflicting the community; operating primarily within the spiritual world, which in turn affects the human world. The restoration of balance results in the elimination of the ailment). (Wikipedia). This shaman was a very friendly, little bloke with a fondness for waving his arms about.

There was a well set up medical centre, many houses, a football pitch and a couple of communal buildings. One of these building needed a new ceiling which is a definite job  FFT volunteers could do. You can see my photos of our visit by going to: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/109904179711235572664/BaltimoreRecce?authkey=Gv1sRgCOH70rnn9q24xQE&feat=email

Back at EI we discussed things with Chris and it was decided that we needed to get back to PEM for a few days to catch up with some marketing work, this blog and many other administrative tasks. EI does have Internet but the window of opportunity to use it is small due to electricity demand (generator only used infrequently) and the number to people needing to use it. This will all change soon though as we are getting proper WiFi installed next month! Hooray!

FFT HQ back garden (work in progress)

So back in PEM with its 24/7 drone of moto taxis, the squeaky horn of the occasional ice cream vendor, the barking dogs and the crowing cockerels it’s back to ‘civilisation’ (and pizza). One interesting thing we had to do was to collect sackloads of castaña (Brazil nut) shells. The guys had cleared the weeds from the FFT house back garden and we now needed something to cover the rocky earth with. You can get as many castaña shells as you want, free from the place where they actually shell them. It’s big business here. A Brazil nut concession can yield a huge amount of nuts every year. The trees are huge and the nuts themselves come in canon ball size outer casings which fall from the tree with an almighty thud. Only one animal, the rabbit-sized agouti has strong enough teeth to crack them open. It buries the nuts like a squirrel and in so doing is hugely instrumental in the trees’ dispersal. In PEM, in the nut shelling factory, they do it another way. From dawn to dusk, the employees of this particular nut-shelling ‘factory’, shell each nut individually using a hand-operated nutcracker. It can’t be the most inspiring work and risking crushing your finger every second of the day must be pretty bad. We are going to bring tourists here so they can see the work that goes into providing those nuts we all hand out at Christmas…

Shelling the Brazil nuts

Brazil nut shelling 'factory'